Author: F C

  • Shin Guards

    Everything around begins with “shin” (“new”) nowadays. The bullet train is called shin-kansen. The neighborhood we are at is called Shinjuku. And today we went to Shin-Yokahama, a western suburb of Tokyo, where we spent the day at Chinatown, the waterfront and the Shinyokahama Ramen Museum, a monument to a national staple. Unlike other museums, it is entirely interactive: you are brought back to a train station town of the 1950’s where there are 8 fully operating ramen restaurants, real branches of real ramen restaurants from around the country. In two sittings (thanks for the free multiple reentries), I polished off 5 bowls of extraordinary ramen. I was kind of hurting afterwards, but it was well worth it. At Chinatown, found mostly kitch, but also saw Henchinrou, the restaurant that beat Iron Chef Chen after 3 tries.

    More fish market tomorrow.

  • Road Show

    Sunday morning: subway to Roppongi to attend a mass at the Fransciscan Center in memory of the Pope. Meet P’s friend M in Ginza. Drove to Uneo to see the cherry blossom festival and view the Tokyo National Museum, where P bought an authentic wood cut print. Drive to another undisclosed location where we had tempura donburi, aka fried battered foods on rice. We parked at a garage where the car is put on a carosel and then put into a computerized elevator. Visited another temple site were we all received bad fortunes. Went to the 100 Yen Plaza, the Japanese equivilent to our 99 cent stores, where we picked up instant ramen, drinks and unusual cotton swabs with ear wax scrapers. Went up to the top of Tokyo Tower, which is basically a 100 m version of the Eiffel Tower. Good views though. Hello Kitty tourist trap on the ground floor. Went back to the hotel tired and beat, and hoping for sushi in the morning.

  • The Long and Winding Road

    Quick recap of today’s trip: went down Shinjuku Dori (Ave.), saw oodles of camera and computer shops, found Isitan department store, had lunch at an Okanowan restaurant, took the train to Shubya, bought sake, crossed the maddening intersection in Lost in Translation. Searched for my friend’s bakery, which turned out near the Norway Embassy and a commuter train station. Had apple pie and cheese cake, took the train back to Shubya. Walked up Meiji Dori (Ave.) Encountered a New York hot dog vendor. Crossed through Harajuku, which is mostly like the East Village (and saw the girls with wild outfits and big blond hair). Had crepes, then walked north past Times Square and back to Shinjuku. Total trip about 2 miles.

    This trip has been overshadowed by the path towards the boundaries of life and death. My father, Terry Shrivo, and now the Pope, may they rest in peace. It has been a time of reflection that everyone needs to consider in their own lives as it goes from beginning to end.

  • Yalta Summit

    Taiwanese breakfast: Taiwanese style doughnuts sandwiched in flat sesame bread, soy milk , green onion rolls, shanghai shao long bao, some sort of breakfast burrito made with scrambled eggs encased in sweet rice.

    National Museum: Wonderful collections from Imperial China, including the emperor’s seals. New found appreciation for Sung dynaster Chinese painter Ma Yuan, whose painting “Tai at Ma River” was captioned by the emperor: “I don’t know if he’s coming or going”. Had lovely Wenshan tea at the coffee shop.

    Chiang Kai Shek Memorial: watched the changing of the guard — wonderful.

    Hakka Cultural Society: saw some great exhibits. Hakka is an official language in Taiwan — it can be heard in the automatic subway announcements.

    Night Market: ate chao tofu, wonton mein, kelbassa style lop chern sausage on a stick, passion fruit flavored ping shaved ice.

    Dinner at AS’s house: massive steaks, potatoes and tomatoes, chocolate cake, creme brulee, various wines and liquors.

    Flying back to Tokyo today. Will work on the missing Kyoto entries.

  • Moons Align

    P and I came in to Taipei in the afternoon. Spent a lot of time in mall shops with AS. Sightseeing tomorrow with YC.

  • 7 countries in 7 hours, real and virtual

    At Canada PavillionWe went to Expo 2005 today, the successor to the World’s Fair series. Close to 50 years since the Flushing World’s Fair, there is still a number 7 type train, but it’s a magnetic levitation train, and there is still a big globe, but it’s made of living flowers. The car exhibit is just as big, but there is a big ferris wheel which was incredibly smooth. We focused most of our time in the Pacific Rim countries area, mostly asian countries. The Philippines had these essential oils displays which facinated me. Malaysia had a projection of a girl in a sarong, which looked something like Princess Leia if she was malay and was being projected from R2D2 in a jungle. Singapore had a huge pavillion — the main attractions were an indoor rain forest (not that we needed it – it was seriously raining all day) and huge bookcases of keepsake boxes which showed little aspects of daily life.

    Prices were really expensive. Roti canai = $10 US, Pizza = $4 US. We got a lot of magnets.

    Canada was the best visually because of its multifaceted video presentation. The picture is from the Canada pavillion’s website – they had people with big flat screen displays walk around and take people’s pictures.

    The most advanced thing that we saw were a variety of robots. There is a robot receptionist called “Actroid” that can respond to questions in four languages, and looked somewhat plastic but relatively real young lady. It’s a step up from Disney World anamatronics. They had another one that was standing and in a race queen uniform at the “Robot Center” while they were demoing a T. Rex robot. P- and I thought it was real freaky. It was also really freaky that they also had a live Japanese lady in a similar but red uniform, and it was kind of hard to tell them apart.

    Before that, we spent the morning exploring the local department store’s food court at Nagoya Station. We stood outside for the 10 am opening, where the female attendants came out and literally did some sort of mechanical song and dance before they opened the doors. You kind of almost couldn’t tell that they weren’t robots either.

    We spent like US$30 down there on so many foods it was not funny. Pork cutlet bento, salmon sashimi, fried gyoza dumplings, crossants, ham buns, chestnut buns, brioche, salmon roe sushi, square box sushi, yoghurt drink, assorted nuts, mochi. But it was so delicious and fresh, we could not resist. That seemed like a lot, but we saved a ton of money not eating at the expo.

    Onward to Kyoto tomorrow, returning to Tokyo and flying to Taiwan.

  • Getting to the Church On Time

    We stayed one night at the New Otani Hotel in Tokyo. Wow, what an amazing place! Their premier restuarant is Le Tour d’Argent, that I know only as one of the few restaurants that defeated the French Iron Chef. Their orange duck menu is close to $200 for two. Obviously, we didn’t eat there. Instead, we wandered the surrounding streets, filled with pachincko parlors, and found this restaurant called An An, which specialized in dishes made with home-made tofu. Menu: Fresh yuzu (tofu skins), shashimi, roast beef medallion and asparagus appertizer, fried tofu, house salad with crumbled tofu, chicken skewers. Their food was amazing, and we were stuffed at US$30 a person.

    The next day was the mad dash to make it to meet up with Anthony Bianchi. His name is in full despite the house rules because he’s an elected city councilman in the city of Inuyama. He is originally from Brooklyn and had gone to my high school. Sunday he was hosting the high school’s band and chorus at Meiji Mura, an architecture theme park; as landmarking is virtually impossible in Japan, the alternative has been to bring these old buildings to this park where they can be cared for. Bianchi hosted Easter Sunday service at the moved St. Francis Xavier Cathedral, followed by a musical and choral performance. Afterwards, there was a party held at the Inuyama International Center, aka “Freude”, where we ate our fill of homemade Japanese foods made by the group’s host families.

    Trains: we took the red circle “M” line to Tokyo station. Took the Shinkensen Bullet Train to Nagoya. The bento boxes on board were great. Took the regional railroad to Inuyama. Took a bus to the theme park. Took a tour trolley to Area 51 where the church was. It was pretty amazing what kind of efficiency is required to make public transport work here.

    We’re going to the Expo 2005 aka the World’s Fair tomorrow. I’ve been calling my mom daily using Skype; it works very well when you have a good Internet connection.

  • On the other side of the moon

    Right now it’s sometime past 2 am on Sunday in a lovely 4 star hotel P– got for a steal on Orbitz. Even in Tokyo, your hotel dollar just gets you so much more than in the US. They are also so much more efficient than any thing in the States.

    Trains in Tokyo, once you figure out what you’re supposed to be doing, are not so much worse than the NYC subway. And they are usually within 30 seconds of being on time.

    American Airlines service to Tokyo is probably the best the airline has to offer. Great entertainment system, the food is decent, and good legroom, even in the middle of the aisles. If you’ve been what I been through, things like Lemony Snicket’s Series of Unfortunate Events or Emimem’s Mockingbird are probably not good choices if one wants to maintain composure in the main cabin.

    Onward to Nagoya tomorrow (or today).

  • Flying to the Sun

    P and I on line at American to check in to the Tokyo flight. We’ll be in Nagoya on Sunday, and Taipei on Wednesday. My mom is ok; folks at the school are sending her flowers. We’ll see you on the other side.

  • Two Hands Heal One World

    My father was quite a private man, but he was quite a man of action. He never spent any time stating his philosophy, but he was convinced that with his two hands, he could heal any person, make any food, solve any problem.

    He was an international man. He was born in Seafordtown in the Caribbean island of Jamaica in 1939, and spent his youth in Falmouth, working in a grocery store and as a baker. His grandmother sent him to Hong Kong for high school, where his favorite thing was to tend the school’s pineapple fields.

    He worked for a few years in London as a Chinese cook before coming to New York, where he continued to cook. His sister was here studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology and my father loved Italian cooking and a good New York beef steak or three, so he decided that this was where he wanted to stay.

    He was so sure that by 1965, with the help of his friend Ann Nurse, an Italian cooking teacher who was the godmother of all of the Chinese in his apartment building, he had become a US citizen. His sister had become friends with a German couple, the Eichhorns, who ran a “mom and pop” orthopedics making shop in the Upper East Side of Manhattan. Hubert “Pop” Eichhorn agreed to take him on as an apprentice and it became his life’s work for the next 30 years.

    As an “orthodist” – an orthopedic technician — or a “braceman”, as they were called in those days, my father specialized in the Milwaukee (CTLSO) Brace, which is used to correct scoliosis, or severe curves of the spine. He studied orthopedics at the source, Marquette University School of Medicine in Wisconsin and at New York University School of Medicine. A Milwaukee Brace is much like a custom suit of armor, requiring plaster body models, shaping of leather, riveting of steel, sewing of linings, clanking on anvils, polishing and fitting. He was one of the very few in New York that could do it all from scratch.

    In 1982 he went out on his own, starting Al Orthopedics Supplies, where he helped to heal thousands of patients from around the world with his back and knee braces. He collaborated with Dr. Jacob Graham to invent two lower profile versions of the Milwaukee Brace which would be as effective, but not be visible when worn. At the Hospital for Joint Diseases, he taught medical students about how to diagnose scoliosis and how braces are used in its treatment. He was very proud of helping to set up the certification program for becoming an orthodist, and displayed the letters C.O. — Certified Orthodist – as a badge of honor. In this litigious age, the fact that he was never sued for his medical work should mean a lot.

    Meantime at home, my father was introduced to my mother, and married her in 1970. I arrived 11 months later, followed quickly by my brother, and followed much later by my sister. We maintained a blend of Chinese, Caribbean and American values in our household. We had a three family house where we lived on the second floor, his sister’s family lived on the first floor, and his grandmother and aunt lived in the basement apartment.

    He did everything he could to keep from us from worry. He never let us know how hard he had to work to make ends meet. He let us enjoy the simpler pleasures of life.

    My father loved food; he did all of the cooking. He never knew how to cook small – he would cook for 10 people even though we were only five. One night would be Jamaican curried beef, the next Hakka stuffed bitter melon, and stewed pork with preserved vegetables, and the next spaghetti and meat sauce. Of course, all of these would be served with steamed white rice, even with the spaghetti. His neighborhood friends were at the local bagel store, where I learnt more about Jewish appetizing foods than any Chinese person could know about. He was so impressed with the omelets that were served on a flight that he spent the next month perfecting his own version. He would bring German delicatessen home from his old boss – his personal New Year celebration would not be complete without little cocktail sausages and cheeses.

    We had a 2 storey peach tree in our back yard. Every fall he would climb the tree with an improvised tool made of a 2 by 4, the hook of a coat hanger and a canvas bag to harvest the ripe peaches. There would always be enough to hand out to family and friends.

    Every Christmas, he would go back to baking, making pound cakes to give to friends and family. He would hand make each batch, churning out upwards of 60 cakes out of a small kitchen oven.

    He would be quick to come up with a Chinese remedy for a flu, a cut, or a bruise. He would find the right combination from the collection he kept in his closet, and soothe it with his hands.

    Whatever his personal indignities he suffered during his long illness due to diabetes, he always tried to be a perfect Jamaican gentleman and a man of medicine, keeping his pain away as much as possible, joking with the doctors and nurses, and occasionally offering his professional opinion. He always offered what he had, often handing people the sugarless candies he liked to have had on hand, and allowed another generation of medical students to learn about what he liked to call his “textbook case”.

    Towards the end, my brother and I carried him up to the apartment because he couldn’t walk up the stairs. Even then, his hands and arms were still strong, and even afterwards he managed to try to massage our backs after the long haul.

    He was a man of few words, but he did believe in his hands, changing, cooking, healing, joining. Let us give our hands to him today.